Counter Intelligence: Tools and products to transform your hair

By June Jones and Candace Lee

The world is ever changing and hairstyles shouldn’t be any different. Beautiful images of celebrities bombard women on a daily basis, so there is no surprise that women feel a need to constantly change their hair in order to stay abreast. Taking hair from curly to straight or visa versa does not require a professional stylist, however. Certain tools are now on the market that can help achieve a variety of looks at home, but not all tools are created equal. Different iron sizes, temperature settings and plate composition can have a drastic effect on the health and ultimate style of your or your client’s hair.  Having knowledge about the best products and tools to use when creating certain looks will prove beneficial when deciding which best suit your own personal or professional styling needs.

 

Size does matter (when it comes to multi-purpose irons)

The days of having multiple irons for different looks are long gone. “There is a lot of talk about flat irons, but multi-purpose styling irons are what consumers should look for,” said stylist Stephanie Nimmer of Godiva Salon in Atlanta. Multi-purpose irons are essentially flat irons that have smaller width plates, allowing for a straight, curled, spiraled, bumped, flipped or wavy look.  The same curls achieved by the old-fashioned rod iron can now be achieved with multi-purpose irons. Nimmer also recommended using “irons with a beveled or slightly angled edge, instead of a straight edge in order to prevent unwanted lines or crinkles in the hair.”  

Smaller sized irons are not only beneficial when it comes to achieving different looks; they also allow consumers to get closer to the root of the hair for straightening purposes, creating a silky, consistent texture. Nimmer suggests irons like the Paul Mitchell Smoothing Iron for a variety of sleek, healthy looks. Knowing your customers’ intended use for their iron will help you to better assist them in their purchase.  Multi-purpose irons are not one size fits all, so it’s important to educate yourself about different sized tools.  

 

The importance of high quality materials

Many consumers think that any iron that claims to be ceramic will lead to professional salon results; however, this is not true. “Irons that are most beneficial to the hair are those that are have ceramic plates, not just a ceramic coating,” said stylist Shanique Frett of Orchid Salon in Atlanta, who is especially known for straightening “natural”—free from chemical relaxers—African-American hair. Ceramic plates are good for the hair because they maintain an even temperature, which reduces damage to the hair. Ceramics are also superior because they produce negative ions that seal the cuticle leaving the hair smooth, as well as repeal humidity which can quickly turn a straight, polished look into a woman’s worst nightmare.  
For consumers that have color-treated hair, a tourmaline ceramic may be an even better investment. Tourmaline plates can produce up to twenty times more negative ions than ceramic plates, helping to protect colored hair and delay fading for up to two weeks longer. “Tourmaline ceramic irons are better than regular curling irons and ceramic irons because tourmaline irons seal the cuticle of the hair better resulting in a longer lasting curl,” stated Raquel Watters, owner of Rikrak Salon in Miami. Watters did note, however, that although tourmaline irons, such as the FHI Heat Platform Professional Iron, are a healthier choice than regular ceramic irons for consumers’ hair, consumers with heavily processed hair should use these irons sparingly “for special occasions, but not everyday” in order to reduce heat damage.

Turning up the heat

One of the most alluring features of multi-purpose styling irons is that they have the ability to get very hot quickly. This feature can also be a detriment to consumers who do not know how to use these tools properly.  “A temperature of 375-400 degrees is safe for most consumers,” Frett said. “Consumers who use irons at higher temperatures may run the risk of scorching their hair. Although the hair may not burn during the initial use of extreme heat settings, continuous use will be damaging in the long run.” 

Nimmer suggested “heat settings under 250 degrees are not very effective.” It is always better to err on the side of safety and start the iron at a cooler temperature. “Settings of 300 degrees or less are best for fine hair or novice users until they obtain the speed and efficiency needed to use higher temperatures safely, while temperatures of 350-400 degrees are generally alright for very course hair.”

Since every person is different and there is no standard temperature that is safe for any one hair type, irons with variable heat controls are extremely important to the hair of your customers and tend to sell especially well. Variable heat settings on the iron will allow consumers to experiment and find a temperature that is appropriate for their hair texture and previous experience handling an iron.  Higher temperature settings should only be used by those who know how to work the iron quickly, reducing the risk of burning the hair. Keeping a variety of irons in stock that have a wide range of temperatures can be used by most consumers safely, whether they are first-time users or professionals.

 

Additional care for colored hair

Hair color can be the magic wand that instantly transforms dull locks into glorious strands that shimmer, shine and add depth to fading colors, but combined with the wrong styling tools, otherwise healthy-looking hair will appear dry and fried. Depending on what you are trying to accomplish, hair-coloring products will almost always require the use of some form of chemical agent, which is cause for extra concern when combined with heat-styling products.  Taking good after-color care is as important as choosing the right shade for your hair, says  Kristine Naluai, stylist at New York’s famed Antonio Priety Salon.  She recommends heat styling every other day with minimal touch-ups in between (at the most) and always using a thermal protectant, such as Kerastase Vernis Nutrai-sculpt, on the hair when heat styling.  “A thermal protectant for the hair creates a protective barrier between the hair shaft and the heat tool, providing protection for the cuticle and therefore preventing fadage from color.”

Occasionally clients purchase products with a particular item in mind, but more often than not they need your knowledge as stylist to help them pick a tool that is right for them. Make sure you know the benefits of the different irons you promote in order to help assist your customers. Your expertise will help build a trusting relationship with your customers and undoubtedly lead to repeat and referral business.

FOR SIDE BOX:

Before and After the Heat

 

Help keep your clients’ hair healthy by protecting it from heat damage with the following suggestions:

Before using the iron make sure the hair is clean and dry. 

Stock and suggest shampoos and conditioners that have the words “moisture” or “hydrating” in the name or description. 
Help customers protect the hair before blow drying with mists and light hair lotions that have silicon components for smoothing.

Suggest thermal protection products so customers’ hair doesn’t have to “take the heat”—the product will take the heat for their hair.

Warn customers not to overuse their iron.  Even the healthiest hair needs a break from the heat.  Iron use of two or three times per week is sufficient to maintain any look.